Sigiriya Rock and Dambulla with Minneriya safari from Kandy

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Roughly 1,200 steps, about 180 m above the plain, with handrails the whole way. Entry is around USD 30-35 for foreign adults — one of South Asia's priciest tickets — paid in cash. Climb at the 7am opening: there is no shade above the frescoes. Full detail in our Sigiriya rock guide.

It is cheaper and has the better view — of Sigiriya. What it does not have is the water gardens, frescoes, mirror wall, lion's paws or summit palace. For the photograph, take Pidurangala. For the site, take Sigiriya. Compared properly in our Sigiriya rock guide.

Roughly June to September, peaking in August, when the shrinking reservoir exposes fresh grass and several hundred elephants converge. Outside those months the herds disperse and you get a normal safari. Operators switch between Minneriya, Kaudulla and Hurulu depending on where the herds are — that is them doing their job. See our Minneriya gathering guide.

Five caves under one granite overhang, in continuous use since the 1st century BC, holding around 150 Buddha images and 2,100 m² of painting. The approach is a steep 15-minute climb; shoes come off at the top terrace, so bring socks. See the Dambulla cave temple guide.

Polonnaruwa if you have one morning — compact, cyclable in three hours, and the Gal Vihara is the finest sculpture in the country. Anuradhapura if you have a full day and an interest in living Buddhism; it is a thousand years older and still an active pilgrimage city. See Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura.

Sigiriya is in the dry zone and follows the *northeast* monsoon — its wet season is October to January, the opposite of Colombo. Best months are May to September, which is also the elephant Gathering. See best time to visit Sigiriya.

Two nights in Sigiriya, Dambulla or Habarana. Day 1: the rock at 7am, Dambulla late morning, a 3pm safari. Day 2: Polonnaruwa by bicycle or Pidurangala at sunrise. Our Sigiriya 2-day itinerary sets out the order and why it matters.

Time it for a puja — 5.30am, 9.30am or 6.30pm. Those are the only windows when the upper relic chamber opens and the hevisi drummers play; outside them you are visiting a beautiful building rather than a ceremony. Take socks: shoes come off at the gate and the stone courtyard gets painfully hot. Full detail in our Temple of the Tooth guide.

February for the clearest weather, or July-August, which is drier here than most people expect and covers the Esala Perahera. Kandy sits between Sri Lanka's *two* monsoons and catches some of both, so it has no long dry season — but it also never has a season that is a write-off. See best time to visit Kandy.

Reserved seats open 30 days ahead and sell out within hours from December to March. Unreserved 2nd/3rd class is sold on the day and always available — you will stand, which is where the open doorways and the famous photographs are. Sit on the right-hand side going south. Note there is no Nuwara Eliya station; the stop is Nanu Oya, 10 km away. See our Kandy to Ella train guide.

July or August — but the dates move every year with the lunar calendar, so any guide naming a fixed week is guessing. It runs ten nights and ends on the Nikini poya. Book accommodation on the route six to twelve months ahead. Details in our Esala Perahera guide.

Sigiriya and Dambulla (2.5 hrs each way) is the best of them. Kitulgala rafting is 2 hrs, the Knuckles range and Pekoe Trail stages are day hikes from here. Ella, Galle and Yala are *too far* — 4-6 hours each way. See day trips from Kandy.

Two nights. One full day for the town — Bahirawakanda, Peradeniya gardens, the lake and the evening puja — and a second for a hike, a village day or the cultural triangle. Our Kandy 2-day itinerary lays it out hour by hour.

The centre and the lake circuit are walkable. For anything up a hill or out of town, take a tuk-tuk — roughly LKR 100-150/km on the meter, and ride-hailing apps price it automatically with no negotiation. See getting around Kandy.