Two Days in Sapa: The Valley Trek with a Homestay, or Fansipan and the Villages from Town

Sapa is 320 km from Hanoi: an overnight train to Lao Cai and an hour's shuttle up, arriving around 7:00, or the six-hour limousine bus on the expressway, arriving at noon. Either way two days means two full days in the mountains, and the plan depends on one question: do you want to walk the valley and sleep in a village, or stay in town and see it in pieces. The getting to Sapa page has the transport.

Day 1: leave Sapa at 9:00 with a Hmong guide, down through Y Linh Ho and Lao Chai along the Muong Hoa river, lunch in a village, on to Ta Van by mid-afternoon, 12 to 14 km, and the night in a homestay with the family's dinner and rice wine. Day 2: Ta Van to Giang Ta Chai's waterfall and the Red Dao side of the valley, or up to Su Pan, 8 to 10 km, lunch, and a car back to Sapa by 15:00 for the evening bus or train. USD 45 to 90 per person with guide, meals and the homestay. The trekking guide and homestay guide have the detail.

Day 1: the Fansipan cable car from the Sun World station at the edge of town, 15 minutes to 3,000 metres and a funicular and 600 steps to the 3,143-metre summit, best in the morning before cloud; back for lunch, then Cat Cat village, the Hmong village and waterfall 3 km below town, a two-hour loop. Day 2: Ta Phin, the Red Dao village 12 km north, with a village walk, embroidery and a herbal bath, or a half-day guided walk to Lao Chai and Ta Van by car and foot. Sleep both nights in Sapa. The Fansipan guide explains the ticket and the cloud.

Two days plus a Sunday is a Bac Ha market morning (markets guide) before the trek. Three days allows the trek and Fansipan. The Sapa town sights, the stone church, the lake and the market, fit into any evening. Skip the O Quy Ho pass unless it is clear; the Silver Waterfall on the way is fine for half an hour.

Sapa is cool year-round and cold, foggy and sometimes frosty from December to February; June to August is the rain, when trails are mud and Fansipan is invisible. March to May and September to November are the months, with the terraces gold in late September. Bring layers, a rain jacket and shoes with grip in every season. Leave main luggage at the Sapa hotel for the trek. Guided treks are booked a day or two ahead in high season; the best time guide has the month-by-month.