Day 1: Higashiyama, Gion & Kiyomizu-dera
Start at Kiyomizu-dera by 8am when the temple opens - its wooden veranda jutting over the hillside is genuinely crowd-free for the first hour, and the walk up Matsubara-dori and Sannenzaka/Ninenzaka (the stone-stepped lanes below the temple) is far more atmospheric before the tour buses arrive around 10am. Budget 90 minutes for the temple grounds plus the approach streets.
From Kiyomizu-dera, walk north through Higashiyama - a 20-30 minute stroll through Ninenzaka into Yasaka Shrine and Gion, all walkable. Cut through Kodai-ji temple's bamboo grove and rock garden (a quieter alternative to Arashiyama's) before rejoining the main path.
For lunch, look for a small teishoku (set-meal) counter one block off Ninenzaka - Higashiyama is full of 8-10 seat family-run spots serving obanzai set lunches for ¥1,200-1,800.
End the day in Gion around 5-6pm, walking Hanami-koji street and the Shirakawa canal area - this is when teahouses light up and you have the best respectful chance of spotting a geiko or maiko heading to an appointment. Do not chase or photograph them up close; it's now legally restricted on private lanes.
