Ubud with Kids: What Works, What Does Not, and the Ages That Matter

Children like Ubud more than parents expect, provided the days are short. The Monkey Forest is the obvious hit from about five, with the rules explained first. Tegallalang works if you walk down into the terraces rather than look at them, and the swings are a guaranteed win from about six, on the low swing with a parent. The Ayung river rafting takes children from around seven and is the most talked-about day of most family trips. A cooking class in a family compound, the Bali Bird Park at Batubulan, the Mason Elephant Park at Taro and the Bali Zoo at Singapadu are the reliable half-days, and Tibumana waterfall is a safe swim for confident swimmers.

Mount Batur is a 2am start and a two-hour climb in the dark and cold; from about ten and only for a child who genuinely wants to. Lempuyang is two hours each way for a queue. Tirta Empul is fine to see but the cold pool and the ritual are not for small children. ATV driving ages are 16 or 18 and passengers from about five, which is fine, but the mud is total. Temple visits in general need to be short, in the morning, and the sarong rule applies to children too. Long private-car loops of five or six stops are the days that end in tears.

Ubud is hot and humid from mid-morning, and the single best decision for a family is a hotel or villa with a pool and a plan that puts the sights before eleven and after four. Warungs serve plain rice, chicken satay, fried noodles and fruit that every child eats; ask for tidak pedas, not spicy, and it will come without the sambal. Bottled water everywhere, and nobody minds a child in a restaurant. Pharmacies in town stock what you need, and the international clinics in Ubud handle the usual scrapes.

One sight in the morning, lunch, pool, one thing at four. That is a good day. A driver for the day makes it possible, since taxis are scarce and scooters with children are a bad idea; note that cars come without child seats unless you ask, and even then bring your own for the very small. For the full list of what each activity involves, see the waterfalls, Monkey Forest and ATV and rafting guides, and the getting around guide for drivers.