Jaipur Shopping Experience with Female Shopping Expert

A guide whose job is your side of the price

Jaipur is one of the best cities in India to buy in and one of the easiest to be overcharged in. Both are true at once, and a guide who shops these markets herself is what separates them.

This one is built for women travelling, and it is the reason solo travellers book it: private, unhurried, and nobody shouting at you from a doorway while you try to think.

What you will look at

Johari Bazaar — the jewellers' street and the city's oldest trade. Kundan, where stones are set in pure gold foil without claws so the gem appears to float, and meenakari, enamel fired onto the back of the same piece so it carries a hidden second design. That was originally so a necklace would be beautiful turned over.

Bapu Bazaar — block-printed cotton, bandhani and leheriya tie-dye, quilted razais, camel-leather bags, and mojari slippers with the curled toes. A good mojari bends easily in the hand; a bad one is cardboard with leather glued on.

Tripolia and Maniharon ka Rasta — lac bangles, still made over a flame while you watch. The craft is specific to Rajasthan and there are fewer families doing it each decade.

What your expert is actually for

Telling handwork from machine work, which is most of what is sold as handwork. Knowing what a thing costs before you ask. Handling the negotiation, or teaching you to do it.

And steering you away from commission shops — say at the start that you want to be taken where locals buy, and a good guide will simply do it.

On gemstones: ask for a certificate stating weight, treatment and origin, and take it. A reputable Jaipur house gives one without being pressed.

Three options

Guide only; guide with a tuk-tuk; or guide with an air-conditioned car. The car is worth it if you intend to buy anything bulky, or in summer.

Practical

Four hours. Whatever you buy is yours to pay for. Carry cash for the small workshops — UPI will not work on a foreign phone.