From Delhi to Varanasi Tour (2 Days)

One dawn and one evening, which is the core of Varanasi

The city needs those two hours more than it needs a long stay. This is built around them.

The dawn boat

The reason to come. A rowed boat along the ghats at first light, when the whole waterfront turns to face the sunrise: thousands of people bathing, washing clothes, praying, practising yoga on the steps, priests under palm-leaf umbrellas, buffalo standing in the shallows.

From the water the ghats read as one continuous stone facade — which is how they were meant to be seen. The palaces above them were built by maharajas from across India who wanted a house on this river.

Manikarnika is on this stretch. Its cremation fires have burned without interruption for centuries, because Hindus hold that dying in Varanasi ends the cycle of rebirth, and bodies arrive here from all over the country.

Photography there is forbidden. That is absolute, your guide will tell you where the line falls, and these are funerals.

The Ganga Aarti

At Dashashwamedh Ghat after dark: seven priests on raised platforms with tiered brass lamps, conch shells, bells, incense and drums, moving in exact unison for around forty-five minutes, in front of thousands on the steps and in boats.

A boat is the better seat if you can get one.

The old city

Lanes too narrow for any vehicle and among the oldest continuously inhabited in the world. Kashi Vishwanath, one of the twelve jyotirlinga — security is heavy and phones and bags are not permitted. Silk weavers' workshops, and kachori-sabzi standing up for breakfast.

Sarnath, eleven kilometres out, where the Buddha gave his first sermon; the Ashokan lion capital in its museum is the original of India's national emblem.

Practical

One night, with transfers, a local guide and the boat included.

Shoes off at the temples, modest dress, and carry very little at aarti — the crowd is dense.